
Everything You’ll Need
Tool / Material | Solid Hardwood (Nail-Down) | Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down) | Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock) | Purpose |
---|---|---|---|---|
Tape Measure | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Measure layout and planks |
Chalk Line | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Mark layout lines |
Pry Bar | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Remove old flooring/baseboards |
Moisture Meter | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Check subfloor moisture |
Level | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Ensure even subfloor |
Spacers | Optional | ✔ | ✔ | Maintain expansion gap at walls |
Flooring Nailer / Stapler | ✔ | ✘ | ✘ | Secure solid planks to subfloor |
Flooring Adhesive | ✘ | ✔ | ✘ | Glue engineered wood to subfloor |
Trowel (for adhesive) | ✘ | ✔ | ✘ | Spread adhesive evenly |
Click-Lock Installation Kit | ✘ | ✘ | ✔ | Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers |
Miter Saw | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Make crosscuts on planks |
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Trim around obstacles |
Safety Glasses | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Eye protection while cutting |
Knee Pads | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Comfort during install |
Underlayment / Vapor Barrier | Depends on subfloor/type | ✔ (moisture barrier) | ✔ | Reduces noise & moisture issues |
Shop Vac or Broom | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | Keep area clean while working |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring
Start by taking out the old flooring and baseboards to reveal the subfloor. This provides a clean surface for the hardwood to expand properly.
Use a pry bar to gently remove baseboards without harming the drywall, so they can be put back later. Take out any vinyl, laminate, or previous hardwood, and make sure all old glue or staples are carefully removed.
Clean and Level the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum the whole subfloor to get rid of dust, nails, debris, or glue. Check for dips or high spots using a straight edge or long level.
- Sand down any high spots.
- Use a floor leveling compound to fill in low spots and even out the surface.
A flat, even subfloor is key to preventing squeaks and ensuring the floor lasts long.
Check for Moisture or Damage
Moisture can cause hardwood floors to fail. Use a moisture meter to test both the subfloor and hardwood planks.
- For wood subfloors: moisture should be below 12%.
- For concrete subfloors: follow the manufacturer’s limits — usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.
If moisture is too high, stop and fix the issue before continuing.
Install Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Required)
Depending on the flooring type and subfloor, an underlayment or moisture barrier might be needed:
- Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.
- Over plywood or OSB: use rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad as recommended.
Follow what the manufacturer requires to avoid warranty issues and ensure the floor works well. Lay the underlayment flat without overlaps, and tape seams if needed.
Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout
Pick Your Starting Wall
In most rooms, it’s best to lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest or most noticeable wall. This helps the room look bigger. If you’re working in several rooms, think about how planks will fit through doorways and between spaces.
Use a chalk line to mark a straight guide along your starting wall. This keeps your first rows straight and helps the rest of the floor stay aligned.
Let the Flooring Adjust
Before putting down the hardwood, let the planks sit in the room for at least 48 to 72 hours to adjust to the temperature and humidity. Lay the boxes flat on the floor and open the ends so air can flow.
This helps the wood get used to the room and reduces the chance of it expanding or warping later.
Lay a Few Rows Without Fastening
Set out some rows of boards without attaching them to see how they will look. This helps you:
- Make sure the layout looks even in the room
- Avoid narrow planks near walls
- Plan for things like vents or door frames
Use this time to mix boards from different boxes to spread color and grain evenly across the floor.
Stagger Seams and Avoid Patterns
To make the floor look natural, stagger the plank ends by at least 6 to 8 inches in each row. Don’t repeat the same lengths or make “stair-step” or “H” shapes, as these can highlight the seams.
Pro tip: Use different plank lengths and swap them across rows for a more natural look.
Figure Out Material Needs (Add Extra for Waste)
Measure the room’s square footage (length × width) and add 10% for cutting waste, mistakes, and future fixes.
For odd-shaped rooms or diagonal installations, increase the extra amount to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
Before you start putting down boards, choose the best way to install your hardwood floor based on the type and subfloor. Each way needs different tools and skills.
Nail-Down Installation (Most Common for Solid Hardwood)
This old method works well for solid hardwood floors on a wooden subfloor like plywood or OSB. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to fix each board to the subfloor.
- Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors
- Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor
- Pros: Very secure and long-lasting
- DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and the right tools)
Glue-Down Installation
Mainly for engineered hardwood over concrete, this way uses flooring adhesive on the subfloor, and you press boards into place.
- Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete
- Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller
- Pros: Strong bond and low profile
- DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messier and needs ventilation)
Floating Installation (Click-Lock)
Great for DIYers with click-lock engineered hardwood. Planks lock and “float” over underlayment without nails or glue.
- Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface
- Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment
- Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly
- DIY Difficulty: Easy
Pro Tip: If putting solid hardwood over wood subfloor, nail-down is usually best. For engineered hardwood, floating floors are easier for DIYers since they need no tools.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines
Before you start laying boards, make sure to set up a straight line to help with installation.
Mark a Chalk Line Next to Your Starting Wall
Choose your starting wall, usually the longest or most noticeable one. Measure the width of a board plus an expansion gap, then mark a chalk line parallel to this wall. This line guides your first row.
Align Boards with the Line
While placing the boards, keep them aligned with the chalk line. This keeps your flooring straight and prevents it from shifting or bending.
Maintain a 1/2″ Gap Around Edges
Wood changes size with humidity. Use spacers to keep a 1/2-inch gap between the hardwood and walls, door frames, and other fixed items. This lets the floor expand without issues.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks
Trim Door Frames if Needed
Before starting, check if the plank needs to go under door frames. Use a saw to trim the bottom of the frames so planks fit well without spaces.
Start with Groove Side by the Wall
Put the first plank with the groove side against the wall. This helps the next plank connect easily. Start on the longest, straight wall to keep the floor aligned.
Secure the First Row
Depending on how you install:
- Nail-down: Use a nailer to attach the boards through the tongue side.
- Glue-down: Spread glue and press each plank firmly.
- Floating (click-lock): Angle and click the second plank into the first.
Make sure planks are tight without gaps.
Use Spacers for Expansion Gaps
Place 1/2″ spacers between planks and the wall. This gap lets the wood expand with changes in humidity and temperature, preventing damage over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring
Once the first row is secured and aligned, continue laying your hardwood planks row by row.
Stagger the End Joints for Stability
For a natural, seamless look and added structural strength, stagger the end joints of each row by at least 6 inches. Avoid aligning joints across consecutive rows, as this weakens the floor and creates a repetitive pattern.
Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Place a tapping block against the edge of each plank and gently tap it with a mallet to close gaps. This ensures each board is snug against the last without damaging the tongue or groove.
Secure Boards Based on Your Method
- Nail-down: Drive nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.
- Glue-down: Spread adhesive evenly and press planks firmly into place.
- Floating floor: Click boards together end-to-end and side-to-side.
Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to ensure the floor remains flat. Adjust as needed before proceeding to prevent long-term issues.
Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners
As you approach the walls or obstacles in the room, you’ll need to custom-cut the final planks for a perfect fit.
Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to determine the exact space remaining, subtracting 1/2″ to allow for an expansion gap. Mark your plank accordingly with a pencil or chalk.
Use the Right Saw for the Job
- Miter saw: Best for clean, straight cuts.
- Jigsaw: Ideal for curved cuts around vents, door frames, or irregular shapes.
Always cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust and debris.
Maintain Expansion Gaps
Leave a consistent 1/2″ gap between the flooring and all vertical surfaces — including walls, pipes, and cabinetry. This allows the hardwood to naturally expand and contract without buckling.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
Once your hardwood planks are installed and secure, it’s time to give the room a clean, finished look. Reinstall the baseboards along the perimeter of the room. If your original trim included shoe molding, reinstall that too for a polished finish.
Install Transition Strips
At doorways and where hardwood meets another flooring type (like tile or carpet), install the appropriate transition strips. These include T-moldings, reducers, or threshold transitions depending on the height and material of the adjacent flooring.
Leave Room for Movement
When nailing or gluing down trim, make sure not to fasten it directly to the hardwood flooring. Doing so can restrict expansion and contraction and may lead to buckling. All trim should be secured to the wall or subfloor—not the floating floor itself.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor
Once installation is complete, take the time to clean and inspect your new hardwood floor to ensure everything is in top shape before use.
Sweep and Vacuum Thoroughly
Remove all sawdust, wood chips, and debris using a broom or vacuum with a soft-brush attachment. This not only gives you a clear view of the floor but also prevents scratches during inspection or furnishing.
Inspect for Issues
Check for visible gaps, uneven planks, or creaking sounds as you walk across the floor. Use a tapping block to snug up any slightly misaligned boards or consult your installation method if adjustments are needed.
Let the Floor Settle
If you used glue-down installation, wait at least 24–48 hours before placing furniture or rugs. This allows the adhesive to fully cure and prevents shifting.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation
Getting professional-looking results with hardwood flooring is all about preparation and precision. These tips will help you work smarter and avoid frustration:
- Always test for moisture using a moisture meter before installation — this helps prevent cupping or buckling later.
- Use knee pads to protect your joints during long hours of floor work, and ensure proper ventilation if you’re using adhesives.
- Check alignment every few rows to make sure planks stay straight and flush.
- Work in manageable sections rather than rushing the entire room at once — this helps maintain quality.
- Take your time on cuts. Clean, accurate cuts make all the difference in creating tight seams and professional results.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood
Even experienced DIYers can run into issues if these common missteps aren’t avoided:
- Skipping the acclimation period can cause the wood to expand or contract after installation.
- Neglecting subfloor moisture and flatness leads to instability, noise, or gaps.
- Failing to stagger seams weakens the structural integrity and creates an uneven appearance.
- Nailing too close to the edge of the plank can cause splits or cracks.
- Forgetting to use spacers leaves no room for expansion, which can lead to buckling.
DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation
Installing hardwood flooring yourself can be a rewarding and cost-saving project — but it’s not the right approach for everyone. Here’s how to decide if you should roll up your sleeves or call in the pros.
DIY Pros:
- Lower total project cost
- Full control over pace and schedule
- Great satisfaction from doing it yourself
DIY Cons:
- Physically demanding and time-consuming
- Requires precision, planning, and specialized tools
- Mistakes can be costly to fix
Professional Installation Pros:
- Fast, expert results with minimal disruption
- Includes subfloor prep, leveling, and cleanup
- Often backed by workmanship warranties
Professional Installation Cons:
- Higher labor cost
- Less flexibility and control over timing
📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table
Feature | DIY Installation | Professional Installation |
---|---|---|
Average Cost per Sq Ft | $3 – $8 (materials + tools) | $7 – $18 (includes labor) |
Best For | Budget-conscious, handy homeowners | Busy homeowners, large or complex jobs |
Time Commitment | Several days or weekends | 1–2 days (typical) |
Risk of Mistakes | Moderate to high | Low |
Tool Investment Required | ✔ | ❌ (provided by installer) |
Satisfaction | High (if done well) | High (with professional finish) |
👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Hardwood Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install hardwood flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a warm, timeless look that adds value to your home. But if you’d prefer to skip the heavy lifting — from precise cuts to subfloor prep — we’re here to help.
Our expert flooring installation team handles every detail with care, whether it’s nail-down, glue-down, or floating hardwood. We’ll make sure your floor is level, secure, and built to last — without you breaking a sweat.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and see if we serve your area!